Sanitation/ Personal Hygiene

Sanitation - Personal Care

Bathing: (We discussed soap inventory needs in soap section)

In the event you had limited water for bathing, your choices for cleaning up would be:
1 - Shallow baths in your tub if you could use it (no broken pipes) and didn’t want to keep the water.
2 - Bath in extra large round tub near heat source. (Do you have something you can use for this if need be?)

3 - Chilly dips in outside water

4 - Camp shower bags (pre bought) hung (either in existing tub or in an out doors area) water is heated by the sun. You would probably need several for a family.

5 - There are clever ways to make showers out of 5 gallon buckets with spigots or holes that are placed on a ladder or high shelf, filled with warm water, you stand underneath, and shower quick

6 - Sponge bath
Shampoo
Each family member needs as an average minimum, one gallon of shampoo per year. That would be enough to wash your hair about once a week, depending on how much shampoo you use.

Shampoo Alternatives:
1 - Work some dry baking soda (dip damp fingers into a small bowlful) into hair and scalp, then rinse it off with warm water, you will have squeaky clean hair.

2 - Homemade Shampoo

4 oz of castile soap with any scent is that available –– plain, peppermint, eucalyptus.
Choose whatever herbs you feel like your hair needs
½ oz of rosemary - stimulates the hair follicles and helps to prevent premature baldness
½ oz of sage –– has antioxidants and keeps things from spoiling and is antibacterial

½ oz of nettles –– acts as a blood purifier, blood stimulator, contains a large source of nutrients for hair growth

½ of lavender –– controls the production of sebaceous gland oil and reduces itchy and flaky scalp conditions

Mix the herbs in a mason jar, which has a lid. Boil 2 cups of distilled water. Add 3 heaping tablespoons of the mixed herbs into the boiling water. Pull the boiling water and herbs off the stove. Let the herb mixture sit for 30 –– 40 minutes. Strain the herbal mixture into a bowl.

Pour 2 to 2 1/2 oz of strained herbal tea into the 8 oz plastic bottle. Now, pour the 4 oz of castile soap into the 8 oz plastic bottle. Cap the bottle and shake to mix the ingredients.

The shampoo is now finished and ready for use. Use this as a base for all of the shampoos you make. You can add different herbs as you learn what these herbs do and how they help your hair. You can vary the ingredients according to your taste.

3 - Shampoo Recipe from Scratch
2 lb 10 oz olive oil
1 ob 7 oz solid vegetable shortening
1 lb of coconut or other oil
10 1/4 oz lye
2 pint water
1 ½ oz glycerin (available at pharmacies)
½ oz alcohol
1 ½ oz castor oil
Mix oils together. Place in a container and set the container in a large pan. Mix the lye solution - pour the lye into an enamel coated container of 2 pints cold water and stir steadily (How to make lye instructions are in the soap section) When cooled pour lye solution into a glass container and set in another large pan. Bring both to between 95* and 98* (candy thermometer works perfectly for this) this will mean pouring either cold or hot water into the pans, depending on original temperature of the ingredients.

Add the lye solution to the oils, pouring in a steady stream while continuing to stir. This mixture will turn opaque and brownish then will lighten. It is ready when its surface can support a drop of mixture for a moment/ the consistency should be like sour cream. Pour Mixture into molds and allow to harden. Make the shampoo as you need it by shaving off flakes and boiling in water until they dissolve, about one pond of shavings per gallon of water. You can add more water to the mixture, boil and allow to cool then place in bottle for use.

Hair Conditioner
½ cup olive oil
½ cup vegetable oil
½ cup honey

Combine ingredients and heat until boiling. Remove from heat and let cool. Pour into a plastic spray bottle and spray wet hair. Wrap in damp cloth and leave for one our. Shampoo and rinse.
Hair Spray
Can be made with watered down corn syrup
Toothpaste

To determine your yearly needs, track your families tooth paste use for a week and times that by 52. The general rule is one large tube per family member per month.

You also need to have extra toothbrushes and floss stored as well. One way to extend your toothbrushes in a survival situation is to boil them for 5 minutes once a month.

1 - Here is a good recipe—>Ben Franklin used this.
Mix honey and ground charcoal, mix into a paste and rub on teeth for whiteness...I read where he only had 2 teeth left when he died, maybe this is why!

2 - Seriously here is a toothpaste mixture -
Mix 3 parts baking soda with one part salt.
Add 3 tsp of glycerin for every 1/4 cup of this mixture. Then add enough water to make a thick paste. Add peppermint oil for better taste.

3 - Toothpaste Mixture #2 -
1/4 tsp peppermint oil
1 tsp spearmint
1/4 cup arrowroot
1/4 cup powdered orrisroot
1/4 cup water
1 tsp ground sage

Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Add water until paste is desired thickness and consistency.
4 - Indians used sage to clean their teeth. They plucked a leaf and rubbed all over their teeth until they were clean.
5 - Another thing used was strawberries.
6 - Pine needles have also been used.
Mouthwash
1 - 2 cups water
3 tsp parsley
2 tsp whole cloves
2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp peppermint extract
Boil water and remove from heat. Add dry ingredients and allow to steep for 10-15 mins. Strain and store in a tightly covered container. You can substitute other flavorings fro peppermint if desired.
Hand Lotion (This is the old RS lotion that used to be sold at Church Bazaar’s)
12 oz glycerin
½ ox 28% ammonia
½ oz boric acid
4 oz steric acid
½ oz cocoa butter or beeswax
2 cup hot water.
Melt glycerin, steric acid and cocoa butter in glass or enamel double boiler. Remove from heat and stir until milky with a wooden spoon, Add boric acid already dissolved in 2 cups hot water, Add ammonia. Beat 10 minutes with mixer.
You can do searches on the internet and find many more recipes. These are recipes that have been tried and used by myself or people I know.

Sanitary Pads
Attached are the instructions to make sanitary pads. These have many uses as well as what they are meant for. This pattern is for you to use if you ever run out of this particular item. (Heaven Forbid!)

Look through this personal care area and determine what your family needs to keep clean. I read a talk once by Brigham Young, I don’t know where it is right now, but he was talking to the Priesthood Brethren about the need to take a bath more than once a month as their wives were complaining!
Evaluate your family’s personal care needs.
How much shampoo do you use? How much would you need in an emergency situation?
How much toothpaste and tooth brushes do you need? If the electricity went out, you would need toothbrushes to take the place of electric toothbrushes.

How much soap do you use and need
also look at your toilet paper needs.


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Sanitation/ Soap

Sanitation- Soap


During any type of disaster one of the biggest challenges is cleanliness. Disease and sickness are spread because of lack of ability to wash hands and dispose of garbage and waste.

It is so important to keep our hands clean, have the ability to wash clothing and keep our area of living clean from refuse, waste and garbage.

Soap is a great item to add to your storage. It is a great morale booster and is one of the top 10 things on barter lists. It is also one of the top 10 things to disappear in a disaster.

There are soaps for different purposes:
Hand Soap
Shampoo
Dish Soap
Laundry Soap
Cleaners for your house
Hand Soap:
When you purchase hand soap, make sure you buy the antibacterial soap.
Your supplies need to include one bar of soap per person per month.
Before you use your bars of soap, let them dry out to last longer.
When you get down to slivers of soap left. Put them in a nylon sock, tie the end shut and you will have the best hand, foot, and elbow scrubber!

Dish Soap
You need the basics to keep your dishes clean, such as dish soap, dish cloths, dish towels, a drainer, SOS pads, and scrubbers.

You need enough dish cloths to trade them everyday. Dish clothes and sponges harbor all kinds of things that will make you sick. I read a report that said many people who think they have the flu often, in reality are having small cases of food poisoning from the dish clothes they do their dishes with. They leave them out and use them for several days. What would happen if you left bits and pieces of food out and they were dampish then you ate them after several days? Wash your cloths at the end of each day!

If you do not have hot water, you will need some type of pot that can heat water over a fire. No, not your kitchen pots unless they are specifically designed for fire. Direct fire heating is much hotter than your stove. Cast iron works the best over a fire.

If you can’t use your sink you will need two dish pans, one for rinsing and one for washing. Three works even better so you can have a bleach final rinse.
Remember, if you are now using a dishwasher you will need quite a bit more than you are used to using.
Wash your dishes for one day, all of them. Make note of how much dish soap you use and times that by 30. The general rule is you need one small bottle of dish soap per month per person. If you are cooking with a fire, you will use more dish soap than you do now cooking with your stove. (Remember, do not use soap on cast iron or you will lose your cure. Salt works great instead)

Laundry Soap
We wash our clothes a lot. In a crisis they could be washed less often. You will need supplies to wash your clothing by hand if we didn’t have electricity. Generations past used rocks, then washboards. You will need a big tub to wash in and something else to rinse in. The fine things such as underwear are the easiest to wash. Using a plunger works much like a washing machine does....you would need to enlist several people to do this, because it takes a lot of muscles!
Soap–get antibacterial
Washboard
Plunger
Baking Soda

Clorox
If you have a baby you will need some type of diaper pail once your disposables run out.
Cleaners for your house
Look at the items you use to clean your home with. Every month add a few of these to your storage. Look to see what cleaners can do several jobs so you don’t have to store as many supplies. You will also need rags, buckets etc.
Another thing to have a back up of is a good broom. If you can’t vacuum your home, you would have to sweep your carpets.
Keeping clean with limited water in a crisis
Heat water in a large kettle on cook stove
Take out what water is needed for dishes and to keep counters clean for the day
Reserve one cup of water for brushing teeth
Reserve another quart for each person to wash their hands through the day.
Water that is used for rinse water for the dishes can be used to bath children and wash faces. Any extra used to flush potties.

Water that has been used to wash dishes can be used to mop floors or saved to flush the toilet if you are able to use it.

You can also purify it as listed in the water section to water plants and gardens.
Before mopping the floor add some spic and span to cut the grease

Add a dash of Clorox to bucket before flushing the toilet.

Here is a great article about making basic soap should you run out of your supply. You can do searches on the internet and find a lot of soap and cleaner recipes. If you do that, make sure the recipes you find have basic ingredients that you would have in your storage.

How To Make Soap (I found a lady, or rather she found me at the preparedness fair who will come next spring and teach us how to make soap if we are interested. I thought it sounded like fun.)

The intention here is to provide the basic data on how to make soap from the most basic materials. There are many fancier soap recipes which make better soaps, as long as you have all the ingredients.

The first write-up assumes you can just go to a store and buy the ingredients. The second only assumes you have some animals you will be butchering and that you have been burning wood fires and cleverly saved the ashes.

Basic Method

[A. This first write-up is taken from Hulda Clarkíííís book, "The Cure for All Diseases," pages 529-530.]

A small plastic dishpan, about 10" x 12" A glass or enamel 2-quart saucepan 1 can of lye (sodium hydroxide), 12 ounces 3 pounds of lard, Plastic gloves [really; use eye-protection too] Water

1. Pour 3 cups of very cold water (refrigerate water overnight first) into the 2-quart saucepan. 2. Slowly and carefully add the lye, a little bit at a time, stirring it with the wooden or plastic utensil. (Use plastic gloves for this; test them for holes first.) Do not breathe the vapor or lean over the container or have children nearby. Above all use no metal. The mixture will get very hot. In olden days, a sassafras branch was used to stir, imparting a fragrance and insect deterrent for mosquitoes, lice, fleas and ticks. 3. Let cool at least one hour in a safe place. Meanwhile, the unwrapped lard should be warming up to room temperature in the plastic dishpan. 4. Slowly and carefully, pour the lye solution into the dishpan with the lard. The lard will melt. Mix thoroughly, at least 15 minutes, until it looks like thick pudding. 5. Let it set until the next morning, then cut it into bars. It will get harder after a few days. Then package.

If you wish to make soap based on olive oil, use about 48 ounces. It may need to harden for a week.

Liquid soap

Make chips from your home-made soap cake. Add enough hot water to dissolve. Add citric acid to balance the pH (7 to 8). If you do not, this soap may be too harsh for your skin.

Basic Method When There Are No Stores!

[This write-up was taken from one done by Marietta Ellis concerning the soap-making practices of colonial America, with the tense mainly changed from the past into the present.]

Saponification is a very big chemical word for the rather complex but easy to create soap making reaction. Saponification is what happens when a fatty acid meets an alkali. When fats or oils, which contain fatty acids, are mixed with a strong alkali, the alkali first splits the fats or oils into their two major parts fatty acids and glycerin. After this splitting of the fats or oils, the sodium or potassium part of the alkali joins with the fatty acid part of the fat or oils. This combination is then the potassium or sodium salt of the fatty acid. As we said at the start, this is soap.

Soap Making Takes Three Basic Steps

1. Making of the wood ash lye. 2. Rendering or cleaning the fats. 3. Mixing the fats and lye solution together and boiling the mixture to make the soap.

First Let's Make the Lye

In making soap the first ingredient required is a liquid solution of potash commonly called lye.

The lye solution was obtained by placing wood ashes in a bottomless barrel set on a stone slab with a groove and a lip carved in it. The stone in turn rested on a pile of rocks. To prevent the ashes from getting in the solution a layer of straw and small sticks was placed in the barrel then the ashes were put on top. The lye was produced by slowly pouring water over the ashes until a brownish liquid oozed out the bottom of the barrel. This solution of potash lye was collected by allowing it to flow into the groove around the stone slab and drip down into a clay vessel at the lip of the groove.

Some colonists used an ash hopper for the making of lye instead of the barrel method. The ash hopper was kept in a shed to protect the ashes from being leached unintentionally by a rain fall. Ashes were added periodically and water was poured over at intervals to insure a continuous supply of lye. The lye dripped into a collecting vessel located beneath the hopper.

Now the Fats Are Prepared

The preparation of the fats or grease to be used in forming the soap is the next step. This consists of cleaning the fats and grease of all other impurities contained in them.

The cleaning of fats is called rendering and is the smelliest part of the soap making operation. Animal fat, when removed from the animals during butchering, must be rendered before soap of any satisfactory quality can be made from it. This rendering removes all meat tissues that still remain in the fat sections. Fat obtained from cattle is called tallow while fat obtained from pigs is called lard.

If soap is being made from grease saved from cooking fires, it is also rendered to remove all impurities that have collected in it. The waste cooking grease being saved over a period of time without the benefits of refrigeration usually become rancid, so this cleaning step is very important to make the grease sweeter. It will result in a better smelling soap. The soap made from rancid fats or grease will work just as well as soap made from sweet and clean fats but not be as pleasant to have around and use.

To render, fats and waste cooking grease are placed in a large kettle and an equal amount of water is added. Then the kettle is placed over the open fire outdoors. Soap making is an outside activity. The smell from rendering the fats is too strong to wish in anyone's house. The mixture of fats and water are boiled until all the fats have melted. After a longer period of boiling to insure completion of melting the fats, the fire is stopped and into the kettle is placed another amount of water about equal to the first amount of water. The solution is allowed to cool down and left over night. By the next day the fats have solidified and floated to the top forming a layer of clean fat. All the impurities being not as light as the fat remain in water underneath the fat.

You may have observed this in your own kitchen. When a stew or casserole containing meat has been put in the refrigerator, you could see the next day the same fat layer.

Finally the Soap Making Can Begin
In another large kettle or pot the fat is placed with the amount of lye solution determined to be the correct amount. This is easier said than done. We will discuss it more later. Then this pot is placed over a fire again outdoors and boiled. This mixture is boiled until the soap is formed. This is determined when the mixture boils up into a thick frothy mass, and a small amount placed on the tongue causes no noticeable "bite". This boiling process could take up to six to eight hours depending on the amount of the mixture and the strength of the lye.

Soft and Hard Soap

Soap made with wood ash lye does not make a hard soap but only a soft soap. When the fire is put out and the soap mixture allowed cooling, the next day reveals a brown jelly like substance that feels slippery to the touch, makes foam when mixed with water, and cleans. This is the soft soap the colonists had done all their hard work to produce. The soft soap is then poured into a wooden barrel and ladled out with a wooden dipper when needed.

To make hard soap, common salt is thrown in at the end of the boiling. If this is done a hard cake of soap forms in a layer at the top of the pot. As common salt may be expensive and hard to get, it is not usually wasted to make hard soap. Common salt is more valuable to give to the livestock and the preserving of foods. Soft soap works just as well as hard and for these reasons the colonists, making their own soap, did not make hard soap bars.

Difficulties in Making Soap

The hardest part is in determining if the lye is of the correct strength, as we have said. In order to learn this, the soap maker floats either a potato or an egg in the lye. If the object floats with a specified amount of its surface above the lye solution, the lye is declared fit for soap making. Most of the colonists felt that lye of the correct strength would float a potato or an egg with an area the size of a modern quarter above the surface. To make weak lye stronger, the solution can either be boiled down more or the lye solution can be poured through a new batch of ashes. To make a solution weaker, water is added [more data to be added here on how to determine the correct strength of lye].

A Pennsylvania Dutch recipe once carefully warned that a sassafras stick was the only kind of implement suitable for stirring the mixture [see Hulda Clark comment above re sassafras] and the stirring must be done always in the same direction [?].

Potash and Pearl ash Trade

Soap making and the manufacture of potash and pearl ashes were closely related trades of colonial America. Pearl ash, purified potash, because of its many industrial uses, was an important item of export for the colonies. Pearl ash, in addition to soap making, was used for making glass both in the colonies and in Europe....

Potash is the residue remaining after all the water has been driven off from the lye solution obtained from the leaching of wood ashes. Pearl ash is then made from the potash by baking it in a kiln until all the carbon impurities were burned off. The fine, white powder remaining was the Pearl ash....

End of article-----

There are several things you need to know before you begin your soap making experience.

Lye which you can either make yourself from wood ash, or purchase at a grocery store, is very irritating to the skin and can do severe damage to eyes and throats. Use extreme caution when using lye, always keeping it away from children. You should use rubber gloves and safety glasses when using lye. Follow the directions on the back of the lye box on how to handle lye. Red Devil is a popular brand of lye. You can also make your own lye by pouring water over wood ashes and saving the bi-product--lye water. The lye water is then added to fat to make soap.

Although lard is the main ingredient in soap, one can successfully substitute other oils to use in its place. Possible substitutions for lard can be sunflower, canola, or just vegetable oil. (Soap made from oil is greasier than that made of lard.) Lard can be purchased at a grocery store or a butcher shop. Crisco works!

The utensils you use in soap making should be saved for soap making use only and should not be used thereafter for food purposes. This goes for the kettle you cook the soap in too, although you might use an enamelware canning kettle to can in after using it for soap making as long as there is no direct contact with food items. Give it a good scrubbing, of course. You must not use metal pans and utensils, like aluminum, iron, tin, or Teflon for soap making. You can use cast iron (as in a kettle, if you are making it outside over a fire) or enamelware, stoneware, wood, glass or plastic.

Always add lye to cold water. Not vise-versa. Remember to stir slowly to avoid splashes. The water will start heating up once the lye is added, due to a chemical reaction. Afterwards, pour the lye solution into the fat, once again stirring slowly.

Chunks in your bar soap is caused by the separation of the lye and the lard. The chunks are the fat. If this happens, melt the mixture and add a cup of water at a time, until the mixture is thick and syrupy again.

You can make your own soap molds out of a rag-lined box or glass cake pans or casseroles. Simply slice the bars with a knife after the soap has cured for a week.

You can use kitchen grease, (drippings off meat etc.) you will need to boil it to get rid of any meat residue, the grease will float to the top and you can skim it off.

To make 9 lbs of soap you need 6 lbs of grease

Homemade soap is not as drying as commercial
To make your own lye—Place wood ashes in a cut off Clorox bottle which has small holes punched in the bottom. Place several layers of cloth in bottom, then ashes on top. Pour boiling water over ashes, allowing the water to slowly drip through into suitable container do not use aluminum (lye is very poisonous keep out of reach of children)
Keep vinegar handy in case you get lye on your skin.

How to Make Laundry Soap-----
You will need a big pot. Do not use aluminum,
Wooden stick, a tree branch works
Cheese cloth or sieve (sieve is easer to clean after
Something to pour the soap into, either glass or enamel or you can use little boxes or cartons, or a pan and cut it into chunks. (Shoe boxes work great)

Bar Soap for Laundry
10 cups animal fat (clarified and strained)
1 lb lye
1 cup bleach
1 qt of rain water
Warm the fat to consistency of warm honey. If fat is too hot it will curdle the soap. Add cool water into another pot. Add lye and stir hard until it is dissolved. Don’t stand over the mixture. Add bleach and continue to stir until mixture is cool. (Lye heats the water) Pour fat into lye mixture very slowly. Stir constantly for 25 minutes until thick and creamy. Pour into molds and allow to stand several days before set. Cut into bars and wrap in brown paper sacks.
Granulated Soap for Laundry
2 ½ quarts cleaned grease
2 ½ qts. water
1 can lye
½ cup borax
1 cup bleach
½ cup ammonia
Warm the fat to consistency of warm honey to be poured into lye mixture. Put water into container and stir till dissolved. Add borax and stir until dissolved. Add grease slowly. Add bleach slowly and continue stirring until mixed. Stir very 30 minutes through the day. Next morning break up as much as you can or grate with a cheese grater.
House Cleaners
Wall or Floor Cleaner
1 gallon water
1 cup ammonia
1/4 cup vinegar

1/4 cup soda.
(Leave out soda if your walls are shiny.)
Window Cleaner
1 pint rubbing alcohol
1 ½ tbls ammonia
1 tsp dish detergent
Wallpaper Cleaner
1 cup flour
1 T. salt
1 tsp. kerosene
2 tsp. ammonia
2 tsp. vinegar
1/2 cup warm water
Mix and boil for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Cool, knead and form into balls. Rub over paper, discarding the balls as they become soiled.
Floor Cleaner
1/2 c. white vinegar
1 c. warm water
Mix and use on vinyl floors.
Drain Opener
1/2 c. baking soda
1/2 c. vinegar
Pour baking soda and then vinegar down the drain. Seal for 10-15 minutes then rinse with boiling water. Repeat if necessary.

Glass Cleaner
1/4 c. white vinegar
1 quart water
Pour into a spray bottle and spray on windows. Wipe dry with a crumpled newspaper.
Dishwasher Detergent
Sprinkle dirty dishes with baking soda and start machine. During the wash cycle, add a small amount of bleach to sanitize your dishes.
Scouring Powder for Sinks
Use Baking soda to scrub grime. Vinegar will loosen lime deposits, and a bit of bleach will disinfect
Challenge -
Buy a package of soap for your storage!

Used with permission from Marcia Lind of the Maple Valley Stake, WA

Sanitation

"Sanitation"

If you have food to eat, you have a sanitation issue, from personal cleanliness to food preparation. This is a most critical area of concern especially if we are in a disaster type situation. If your family gets sick from poor hygiene or poor habits, it won’t matter how much food you have stored.

"After awhile, even gold can lose its luster. But there is no luxury in war quite like toilet paper. Its surplus value is greater than gold." (Sorry I can’t find the author of this truism! After the info I present to you, I think you will agree with this assessment!)

Toilet paper is a recent luxury, so what did all our ancestors use???
- Corn cobs soaked in a rain barrel

- Mussel shells

- A "gompf stick" that was kept in a container by the privy, but this was late period

- Irish and Scandinavian ancients used moss

-Romans washed up with water

- Both linen and wool cloth scraps have been found in ancient privies, scraps from old clothing

- discarded locks of sheep's wool, which would make sense from skirting fleeces

- Hay-balls
- Straw

-smooth rocks

- sailors used the ends of frayed anchor ropes On Frontier House, they said settlers in the 1800's each used their own rag and washed it after.

A little about the corn cobs - Old privies had a hole in the side wall to dispose of the corn cob and this was called a "corn hole." Now you know where the expression ("corn holed") comes from. To prepare the cob, you take two dried corn cobs, and rub them together so as to make a nice soft frayed surface. Then you use it and dispose of the cob through the corn hole afterwards. Those were plowed under since there was such a small percentage of offensive material in them.

When I was a little girl my grandparents lived in Gem, Kansas. They didn’t get an indoor bathroom until the late fifties. They had the coolest three hole outhouse, two adult size and one little one built for my mom and her sister. I remember toilet paper out there but my mom says when she was growing up they used the prior year volume of Sears Catalog. It was made at that time of the same paper that phone books are made of. The idea was to take a page and smash and rub it in your hands to soften it up.

What do people use now if they do not use TP?

The Europeans have had this down for a while, they are called Bidet's.

Others use a damp cloth, and then wash the cloth. Use a diaper pail or something until a washing load is ready. By the way, half diapers are great - dampen one end, wipe, and use the dry half to dry. (Make sure not to use these cloths to wash your face) Some cultures use their left hand; their right hand is for eating. Other’s use leaves, (be watchful for poison ivy!)
I myself would put toilet paper high on my storage list!

How much Toilet Paper do I need to store?
It has been suggested that each person needs a roll per week. The best brand of TP I have found so far to be the best value is Scott. Try to buy a big package of it every time you go shopping, or buy it on sale. It is bulky and cumbersome to store, but that is ok!

Babies and Diapers
Since most people use disposable diapers, many do not have cloth diapers in storage. If disposables were not available, you would need cloth diapers, pins and plastic pants. You need to make note of how many diapers your baby goes through each day. You need at least 3 days worth of diapers. You also need to have 2-3 pairs of plastic pants per day and at least 4 sets of pins. I don’t like to mention store names, but Wal-Mart is the only store that carries these things regularly.) You also need to make sure you have a rash cream for your baby; you need 20 oz for every year of age your child is that is in diapers.

Baby Wipe Recipe
1 cup warm water, 1 tablespoon lotion, 1 tablespoon baby wash. Mix well. Put soft paper towels that have been cut in half in air tight container and cover with liquid.

Waste Disposal (It shows how blessed we are that we really don’t know how to deal with this subject and turn our noses up at it.)
What would happen to our world if the toilets no longer flushed? Few things can spread disease faster; attract more flies, vermin and rodents than the improper storage of human waste. It has been speculated that some of the deadly diseases of the Middle Ages in Europe were spread mainly by the inadequate sewage systems of the time. Failure to properly dispose of human waster can lead to epidemics such as typhoid, cholera, dysentery, nausea and diarrhea.

This is a very brief outline of these things.
So how do we deal with this waste?
Toilet - No running water. We could still use our potties if there weren’t any broken sewer lines. The water uses the gravity system. You would need to use grey water to flush the toilets. They would have to be flushed less often to save on water use.

Toilet - Can not flush Place a one gallon bucket inside the empty toilet and a plastic bag inside the bucket. When the toilet is used, tie up the bag and dispose of. You will need to bury it, if garbage services are not available. Buckets - This is the easiest thing for an indoor waste disposal system if the toilets couldn’t be used. Put a heavy duty trash bag inside a 5 gallon bucket as a liner. You will need a bucket for urine and a bucket for excrement. After each use add a little dirt, kitty liter, or sawdust. When they are full, pour out the urine in a location far from your water source. Use a shovel to dig a hole and bury the excrement. You can even add a comfortable toilet seat to the bucket. A family of four will fill this in about 4 days.
Portable Toilet - Portable toilets are available in the camping section of your local retail store and are miniature versions of a porta potty. They hold a reservoir of water that flushes the waste into a storage container. (Keep in mind you would have to empty this often. When we were at girl’s camp we had 200 people and we filled about 4 full size porta potties in 4 days.)
The Outhouse - This is very efficient and low cost. Find a place away from your water source, dig a hole, place a protective covering around it, with a with seat with a hole in it. and it is ready to go. This is one that you don’t have to worry about sanitation and moving waste from in the house. Make sure that everyone washes their hands after. (Also make sure the door has something on it a leather strap split to go over a nail or whatever to keep little children from wandering in and falling in the hole.) (Lime can be used but must be used with caution to keep the smell down.)
What if I Run Out of TP - You can use a cake pan that has a sealed cover on it. Put several layers from magazines, newspapers, telephone books etc. Add a little water to the paper and seal it up. It softens the paper and moistens it just a bit so there isn't the irritation that too rough of paper can create.
Other ideas - duplicate what has been done in the past.
Preventing the Spread of Disease
It is vitally important to wash your hands after using the bathroom, particularly if there are water shortages. If you have to use outside facilities like an outhouse you might want to hang a water bag filled with water with bleach in it to rinse your hands after going potty.
Other suggested items to be stored would be:
Antibacterial soaps
Baby wipes
Bar soap
Liquid soap with pump
Hand towels-(you will need more than you normally do)
“Rags” for cleaning up messes
Paper towels for the short haul
Used with permission from Marcia Lind Maple Valley Stake, WA

Family Home Evening Activity #4 Water Storage

Summary

FHE Water Supply Acitivity

Storing Safe Water

Your family’s health and well being will certainly depend on having a safe, clean supply of water in the event of an emergency. Water supplies can quickly be compromised in numerous ways, so make sure you have plenty on hand.

• Prior to Family Home Evening

Parents and adult family members should be familiar with all lesson information. Purchase or gather plastic containers to store water. Refer to lesson specifications and pick up any other supplies you might need to have on hand.

• Activity
1. Explain to the family the vital need for clean, safe drinking water and brainstorm other water needs.
2. Prepare and clean used containers and lids with hot, soapy water. Sanitize using the process described in the lesson.
3. Give children a math problem to figure out how much drinking water will be required by the family for two weeks.
4. Label all the water containers “drinking water” and include the current date. Fill the containers and find a cool, dry storage place away from harmful chemicals and fuels. Water can also be stored in the freezer, if you have space available. Be sure to add the recommended amount of chlorine bleach per gallon of water.
5. Talk about additional sources of water that might be available. Demonstrate ways to disinfect water.

• Follow Up

Stored water should be rotated 3-4 times a year. Enlist the aid of the family to accomplish this process. Water you are replacing could be used on plants or gardens, or simply work out a rotation schedule.

Storing Safe Water

Preparation: Consider short-term and long-term water storage

· Short-term: water needs for up to 72 hours. PORTABLE. Small water containers easily used and replaced. Swap every 6 months.

· Long-term: Large barrels for 72+ hours- several months. Swap every 6-12 months

Purchase or gather plastic containers to store water. Food-grade plastic containers are suitable for storing water. One-, three- and five-gallon water containers can be purchased from most outdoor or hardware stores. Any plastic container that previously held food or beverages such as 2-liter soda bottles or water, juice, or punch containers may also be used.

Activity:

Clean used containers and lids with hot soapy water. Once the containers have been thoroughly cleaned, rinse them with water and sanitize the containers and lids by rinsing them with a solution of 1 tablespoon chlorine bleach per gallon of water. Leave the containers wet for two minutes, then rinse them again with water. Remember to remove the paper or plastic lid liners before washing the lids. It is very difficult to effectively remove all residue from many containers, so carefully clean hard-to-reach places like the handles. Never use containers that previously held chemicals.

Calculate how much water you/your family needs for a two week period (1 gallon per person per day). Fill the needed number of containers with clean water and, as an additional precaution, add 5-7 drops, about 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine bleach per gallon of water. This precaution protects you against any lingering organisms in storage containers that may have been inadvertently missed during the cleaning process. *Use liquid household bleach that contains 5.25 percent hypochlorite. Do not use bleaches with fresheners or scents as they may not be safe to consume.

Clearly label all water containers "drinking water" with the current date. Store the water in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources like clothes dryers and chimneys. Do not store it near gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances.

NOTE: When water is properly stored, it should have an indefinite shelf life; however, it's a good idea to use and replace the stored water every 6 - 12 months. Rotating water this way provides you with an opportunity to experiment and check the amount of stored water against what you require. It also serves as an additional precaution against bacteria or viruses growing in containers which may not have been thoroughly or properly cleaned and sanitized.

If you have freezer space, storing some water in the freezer is a good idea. If you lose electricity, the frozen water will help keep foods in your freezer frozen until the power is restored. Make sure you leave 2 to 3 inches of space in containers because water expands as it freezes.

Additional information: Sources of water within your home include your water heater, toilet tank (not toilet bowl), and plumbing (you can drain your pipes). It is also a good idea to have a rain barrel as an additional method of water collection for use in emergencies.

Safe Water in Emergencies

In addition to having a bad odor and taste, contaminated water can contain microorganisms that cause diseases such as dysentery, typhoid and hepatitis. You should purify all water before using it for drinking, food preparation or hygiene. There are many ways to purify water. None is perfect. Often the best solution is a combination of methods.

1. Clarify cloudy water by adding a small amount of powdered kitchen alum—about 1/4 level teaspoon per gallon. Larger amounts are not more effective! Crystals take much longer to dissolve than does powder. The alum reacts with the water, producing a precipitate which slowly settles and absorbs impurities. After settling is complete (fifteen minutes to an hour or two, depending on the water) pour the water into another container, being careful not to stir up the sludge at the bottom. Discard the sludge, and the water is ready to be disinfected. If you don’t have any alum, filter the water through a tightly woven cloth. Clarification is important; clear water can be purified using less chlorine or iodine than you need for cloudy water. When the water is clear, you are ready to disinfect it.

2. Disinfect the water by one of the following methods:

Boiling. Boiling is the safest method of purifying water. Bring water to a rolling boil and boil for 3-5 minutes, keeping in mind that some water will evaporate. Let water cool before drinking. This is the best method if fuel is available. (At elevations of ten thousand feet or more, water should be boiled for 15 minutes because it boils at a lower temperature at higher elevations.)

Chlorine. Add 4-5 drops of chlorine bleach solution (4 to 6 percent hypochlorite solutions such as Clorox or Purex work well) per quart of water (16 drops per gallon of water). Let the water stand for 30 minutes. If the water does not have a slight bleach odor, repeat the treatment and let it stand another 15 minutes. A small plastic bottle of bleach solution will purify a lot of water, but the chlorine solution deteriorates with time, so replace your bottle on a yearly basis. Halazone tablets release chlorine slowly, but they are expensive, have a relatively short shelf life, and are less effective.

Iodine. Add 8 drops of a 2% tincture of iodine solution (obtainable at most pharmacies) to a quart of water, and let stand for 30 minutes. (Note: persons who are sensitive to

iodine or who have hyperthyroidism should not use this method.) Check products carefully and do not use them unless they contain 5.25% sodium hypochlorite as the only active ingredient.

3. Distillation. Distillation involves boiling water and then collecting the vapor that condenses back to water. The condensed vapor will not include salt and other impurities. To distill, fill a pot halfway with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot’s lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is upside down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled.

NOTE: While boiling or disinfecting will kill most microbes in water, distillation will remove microbes that resist these methods, heavy metals, salts, and other chemicals.

As a reminder, put labels on the alum, bleach and iodine containers:

Kitchen Alum 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of cloudy water. Let stand until clear

Chlorine Bleach 4-5 drops = 1/8 teaspoon per quart of clear water.

Iodine Solution 3 Tablespoon per gallon of clear water. Let stand approximately 30 minutes.

Additional Hint -

Nursing mothers and persons with special dietary needs or medical conditions may require more than 1 gallon/day. They should plan accordingly.

Family Home Evening Activity #3 First Aid

Summary

First Aid FHE

Family Home Evening First Aid Activity

This Family Home Evening Activity is meant to encourage individuals and family members to discuss potential emergencies, refresh skills and review basic first aid knowledge. We hope that each participant will seek to obtain a working fundamental understanding of basic first aid. We also hope that each family will work together in gathering first aid supplies in preparation for various potential emergencies. Some preparation or advance planning may be required to secure first aid supplies. We encourage families to review, assemble, and store basic first aid supplies for your family’s benefit.

· Prior to Home Evening:

It may be a fun activity to have family members shop together for supplies prior to assembling family first aid kits. Some additional supplies should be made available for demonstrative purposes in preparing, practicing and role playing during your family home evening activity. Remember planning, preparation and practice improves performance and saves lives. If you are unable to secure additional first aid supplies, have family members gather items already within the home.

· Activity:

1. Discuss the ABC’s of First Aid for establishing priority in rendering assistance.

2. Assemble First Aid Kits for each vehicle and individual 72 hour kit.

3. Practice with each family member by role playing to ascertain if each family member understands how to treat common emergencies. The following scenarios are but a beginning of what could be asked during your family home evening: “What would you do under the following conditions, if a family member sustained any of the following injuries?”

a. Minor cut

b. Severe bleeding

c. Not breathing

d. In shock

e. Poisoned

f. Burned

4. Look up on the internet first aid websites or review the Boy Scouts of America First Aid Merit Badge booklet.

5. Optional: Invite a boy scout or registered nurse to teach basis first aid to your family.

· Follow Up:

Evaluate the activity with your family to determine what additional training and review is deemed necessary to improve your family’s first aid skills and knowledge.

Basic First Aid

DISCLAIMER: This information should not be construed as a First Aid Manual. It is not intended as a substitute for professional medical services, advice, and/or treatment. It is not intended to provide formal first aid training; rather, it is only intended for educational and discussion purposes. When faced with a medical emergency immediately seek out and consult qualified medical personnel.

FIRST AID—PRIORITY (REMEMBER YOUR ABC’s)
The logical order in assessing an emergency should carefully be followed.

Airway:

• Assess the situation.
• Is victim responsive, ask “Are you okay?”
• If not responsive, send someone for help.
• Is the victim breathing? If not, open the victim’s airway (push back on forehead while lifting up on the chin).

Breathing:

• Look, Listen and Feel for breathing (look to see if chest is rising, listen for sounds of breath, and feel for air coming from nose or mouth).
• If not breathing, rescue breathing is immediately required (encourage family members to enroll in a red cross CPR course). Give victim two breaths, check pulse to ascertain heartbeat.
• If heartbeat, but not breathing, then rescue breathing would be required.
• If no heartbeat, CPR would be immediately required.

Circulation:

To stop bleeding, do the following:

• Apply Direct pressure -- place a clean cloth firmly over the wound and press hard.
• Elevation -- if on an extremity, lift the limb over the person's heart.
• Pressure point -- place direct pressure at one of the "pressure points". On the arm, this is between the bicep and tricep on the upper arm (a pulse is normally palpable). Learn the locations of pressure points on the body.

TRAVEL FIRST AID KIT

1 Chemical ice pack, Two 2" roller bandages, roll of adhesive tape, 12 3x3 sterile pads, adhesive bandage strips, 3 elastic bandages, thermometer, scissors, tweezers, safety pins, calamine lotion, 2 pair examination gloves, antiseptic, antibiotic ointment, water based burn gel, mouth barrier device and a bottle of water.

Materials & Ideas retrieved from the following websites: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Scouting:BSA_-_First_Aid_Merit_Badge

http://www.survival-center.com/firstaid/order.htm

http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/first-aid-shock/FA00056

Shock: First aid (Remember: If red lift the head and if pale lift the tail).

Shock may result from trauma, heatstroke, allergic reactions, severe infection, poisoning or other causes. Various signs and symptoms appear in a person experiencing shock:

§ The skin is cool and clammy. It may appear pale or gray.

§ The pulse is weak and rapid. Breathing may be slow and shallow, or hyperventilation (rapid or deep breathing) may occur. Blood pressure is below normal.

§ The eyes lack luster and may seem to stare. Sometimes the pupils are dilated.

§ The person may be conscious or unconscious. If conscious, the person may feel faint or be very weak or confused. Shock sometimes causes a person to become overly excited and anxious.

If you suspect shock, even if the person seems normal after an injury:

1. Dial 911 or call your local emergency number.
2. Have the person lie down on his or her back with feet higher than the head. If raising the legs will cause pain or further injury, keep him or her flat. Keep the person still.
3. Check for signs of circulation (breathing, coughing or movement). If absent, begin CPR.
4. Keep the person warm and comfortable. Loosen belt(s) and tight clothing and cover the person with a blanket. Even if the person complains of thirst, give nothing by mouth.
5. If the person vomits or bleeds from the mouth, turn the person on his or her side to prevent choking.
6. Seek treatment for injuries such as bleeding or broken bones.

Severe bleeding: First aid

If possible, before you try to stop severe bleeding, wash your hands to avoid infection and put on synthetic gloves. Don't reposition displaced organs. If the wound is abdominal and organs have been displaced, don't try to push them back into place. Cover the wound with a dressing.

For other cases of severe bleeding, follow these steps:

1. Have the injured person lie down. If possible, position the person's head slightly lower than the trunk or elevate the legs. This position reduces the risk of fainting by increasing blood flow to the brain. If possible, elevate the site of bleeding.
2. While wearing gloves, remove any obvious dirt or debris from the wound. Don't remove any large or more deeply embedded objects. Don't probe the wound or attempt to clean it at this point. Your principal concern is to stop the bleeding.
3. Apply pressure directly on the wound. Use a sterile bandage, clean cloth or even a piece of clothing. If nothing else is available, use your hand.

4. Maintain pressure until the bleeding stops. Hold continuous pressure for at least 20 minutes without looking to see if the bleeding stopped. You can maintain pressure by binding the wound tightly with a bandage (or even a piece of clean clothing) and adhesive tape.
5. Don't remove the gauze or bandage. If the bleeding continues and seeps through the gauze or other material you are holding on the wound, don't remove it. Instead, add more absorbent material on top of it.
6. Squeeze a main artery if necessary. If the bleeding doesn't stop with direct pressure, apply pressure to the artery delivering blood to the area of the wound. Pressure points of the arm are on the inside of the arm just above the elbow and just below the armpit. Pressure points of the leg are just behind the knee and in the groin. Squeeze the main artery in these areas against the bone. Keep your fingers flat. With your other hand, continue to exert pressure on the wound itself.
7. Immobilize the injured body part once the bleeding has stopped. Leave the bandages in place and get the injured person to the emergency room as soon as possible.

If you suspect internal bleeding, seek emergency help. Signs of internal bleeding may include:

§ Bleeding from body cavities (such as the ears, nose, rectum or vagina)

§ Vomiting or coughing up blood

§ Bruising on neck, chest, abdomen or side (between ribs and hip)

§ Wounds that have penetrated the skull, chest or abdomen

§ Abdominal tenderness, possibly accompanied by rigidity or spasm of abdominal muscles

§ Fractures

§ Shock, indicated by weakness, anxiety, thirst or skin that's cool to the touch

Burns: First aid

To distinguish a minor burn from a serious burn, the first step is to determine the degree and the extent of damage to body tissues. The three classifications of first-degree burn, second-degree burn and third-degree burn will help you determine emergency care:

First-degree burn
The least serious burns are those in which only the outer layer of skin (epidermis) is burned. The skin is usually red, with swelling and pain sometimes present. The outer layer of skin hasn't been burned through. Treat a first-degree burn as a minor burn unless it involves substantial portions of the hands, feet, face, groin or buttocks, or a major joint.

Second-degree burn
When the first layer of skin has been burned through and the second layer of skin (dermis) also is burned, the injury is termed a second-degree burn. Blisters develop and the skin takes on an intensely reddened, splotchy appearance. Second-degree burns produce severe pain and swelling.

If the second-degree burn is no larger than 2 to 3 inches in diameter, treat it as a minor burn. If the burned area is larger or if the burn is on the hands, feet, face, groin or buttocks, or over a major joint, get medical help immediately.

For minor burns, including second-degree burns limited to an area no larger than 2 to 3 inches in diameter, take the following action:

§ Cool the burn. Hold the burned area under cold running water for at least 5 minutes, or until the pain subsides. If this is impractical, immerse the burn in cold water or cool it with cold compresses. Cooling the burn reduces swelling by conducting heat away from the skin. Don't put ice on the burn.

§ Cover the burn with a sterile gauze bandage. Don't use fluffy cotton, which may irritate the skin. Wrap the gauze loosely to avoid putting pressure on burned skin. Bandaging keeps air off the burned skin, reduces pain and protects blistered skin.

§ Take an over-the-counter pain reliever. These include aspirin, ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin, others), naproxen (Aleve) or acetaminophen (Tylenol, others). Never give aspirin to children or teenagers.

Minor burns usually heal without further treatment. They may heal with pigment changes, meaning the healed area may be a different color from the surrounding skin. Watch for signs of infection, such as increased pain, redness, fever, swelling or oozing. If infection develops, seek medical help. Avoid re-injuring or tanning if the burns are less than a year old — doing so may cause more extensive pigmentation changes. Use sunscreen on the area for at least a year.

Caution

· Don't use ice. Putting ice directly on a burn can cause frostbite, further damaging your skin.

· Don't break blisters. Broken blisters are vulnerable to infection.

Third-degree burn
The most serious burns are painless and involve all layers of the skin. Fat, muscle and even bone may be affected. Areas may be charred black or appear dry and white. Difficulty inhaling and exhaling, carbon monoxide poisoning or other toxic effects may occur if smoke inhalation accompanies the burn.

For major burns, dial 911 or call for emergency medical assistance. Until an emergency unit arrives, follow these steps:

1. Don't remove burnt clothing. However, do make sure the victim is no longer in contact with smoldering materials or exposed to smoke or heat.
2. Don't immerse severe large burns in cold water. Doing so could cause shock.
3. Check for signs of circulation (breathing, coughing or movement). If there is no breathing or other sign of circulation, begin cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR).

4.Cover the area of the burn. Use a cool, moist, sterile bandage; clean, moist cloth; or moist towels.

Electrical burns: First aid

An electrical burn may appear minor or not show on the skin at all, but the damage can extend deep into the tissues beneath your skin. If a strong electrical current passes through your body, internal damage, such as a heart rhythm disturbance or cardiac arrest, can occur. Sometimes the jolt associated with the electrical burn can cause you to be thrown or to fall, resulting in fractures or other associated injuries.

Dial 911 or call for emergency medical assistance if the person who has been burned is in pain, is confused, or is experiencing changes in his or her breathing, heartbeat or consciousness.

While helping someone with an electrical burn and waiting for medical help, follow these steps:

1. Look first. Don't touch. The person may still be in contact with the electrical source. Touching the person may pass the current through you.
2. Turn off the source of electricity if possible. If not, move the source away from both you and the injured person using a nonconducting object made of cardboard, plastic or wood.
3. Check for signs of circulation (breathing, coughing or movement). If absent, begin cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) immediately.
4. Prevent shock. Lay the person down with the head slightly lower than the trunk and the legs elevated.
5. Cover the affected areas. If the person is breathing, cover any burned areas with a sterile gauze bandage, if available, or a clean cloth. Don't use a blanket or towel. Loose fibers can stick to the burns.

First-aid kits: Stock supplies that can save lives

A well-stocked first-aid kit can help you respond effectively to common injuries and emergencies. Keep at least one first-aid kit in your home and one in your car. Store your kits in easy-to-retrieve locations that are out of the reach of young children. Children old enough to understand the purpose of the kits should know where they are stored.

You can purchase first-aid kits at many drugstores or assemble your own. Contents of a first-aid kit should include:

Basic supplies

§ Adhesive tape

§ Aluminum finger splints

§ Antibiotic ointment

§ Antiseptic solution or towelettes

§ Bandages, including a roll of elastic wrap (Ace, Coban, others) and bandage strips (Band-Aid, Curad, others) in assorted sizes

§ Instant cold packs

§ Cotton balls and cotton-tipped swabs

§ Disposable latex or synthetic gloves, at least two pair

§ Gauze pads and roller gauze in assorted sizes

§ Eye goggles

§ First-aid manual

§ Petroleum jelly or other lubricant

§ Plastic bags for the disposal of contaminated materials

§ Safety pins in assorted sizes

§ Save-A-Tooth storage device containing salt solution and a travel case

§ Scissors, tweezers and a needle

§ Soap or instant hand sanitizer

§ Sterile eyewash, such as a saline solution

§ Thermometer

§ Triangular bandage

§ Turkey baster or other bulb suction device for flushing out wounds

Medications

§ Activated charcoal (use only if instructed by Poison Control Center)

§ Anti-diarrhea medication

§ Over-the-counter oral antihistamine (Benadryl, others)

§ Aspirin and nonaspirin pain relievers (never give aspirin to children)

§ Calamine lotion

§ Over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream

§ Personal medications

§ If prescribed by your doctor, drugs to treat an allergic attack, such as an auto-injector of epinephrine (EpiPen)

§ Syringe, medicine cup or spoon

Emergency items

§ Cell phone and recharger that utilizes the accessory plug in your car dash

§ Emergency phone numbers, including contact information for your family doctor and pediatrician, local emergency services, emergency road service providers and the regional Poison Control Center

§ Small, waterproof flashlight and extra batteries

§ Candles and matches for cold climates

§ Sunscreen

§ Mylar emergency blanket

Give your kit a checkup
Check your first-aid kits regularly, at least every three months, to be sure the flashlight batteries work and to replace supplies that may have expired.

In addition, take a first-aid course to prepare for a possible medical emergency. Be sure the course covers cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) and how to use an automated external defibrillator (AED). Renew your CPR certification at least every two years.

Prepare children for medical emergencies in age-appropriate ways. The American Red Cross offers a number of helpful resources, including classes designed to help children understand and use first-aid techniques.

Poisoning: First aid

Many conditions mimic the signs and symptoms of poisoning, including seizures, alcohol intoxication, stroke and insulin reaction. So look for the signs and symptoms listed below if you suspect poisoning, but check with the Poison Control Center at (800) 222-1222 (in the United States) before giving anything to the affected person.

Signs and symptoms of poisoning:

§ Burns or redness around the mouth and lips, which can result from drinking certain poisons

§ Breath that smells like chemicals, such as gasoline or paint thinner

§ Burns, stains and odors on the person, on his or her clothing or on the furniture, floor, rugs or other objects in the surrounding area

§ Empty medication bottles or scattered pills

§ Vomiting, difficulty breathing, sleepiness, confusion or other unexpected signs

When to call for help:

Call 911 (or your local emergency number) immediately if the person is:

§ Drowsy or unconscious

§ Having difficulty breathing or has stopped breathing

§ Having seizures

If the person seems stable and has no symptoms, but you suspect poisoning, call the Poison Control Center at (800) 222-1222. Provide information about the person's symptoms and, if possible, information about what he or she ingested, how much and when.

What to do while waiting for help:

• If the person has been exposed to poisonous fumes, such as carbon monoxide, get him or her into fresh air immediately.
• If the suspected poison is a household cleaner or other chemical, read the label and follow instructions for accidental poisoning. If the product is toxic, the label will likely advise you to call the Poison Control Center at (800) 222-1222. Also call this 800 number if you can't identify the poison, if it's medication or if there are no instructions.
• Follow treatment directions that are given by the Poison Control Center.
• If the poison spilled on the person's clothing, skin or eyes, remove the clothing. Flush the skin or eyes with cool or lukewarm water, such as by using a shower for 20 minutes or until help arrives.
• Take the poison container (or any pill bottles) with you to the hospital.